Athens, Greece - Stein Travel
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Athens

Athens exudes a unique charm, its lively character winning over tens of thousands of visitors every year. Street markets, vine-covered tavernas, souvenir stalls and ancient monuments are dotted among high-rise buildings in this capital city, which one out of four Greeks call home. For tourists the greatest advantage is that most attractions are accessible on foot in the central area around the landmark Acropolis.

Athens was named after Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, who according to mythology won the city as prize after a duel against Poseidon. The city can chart its history back thousands of years and is regarded as the cradle of western civilisation; the place where democracy was invented and philosophy, art and architecture were refined. After a classical golden age when it was home to Socrates, Plato and Aristotle, the city declined in the Middle Ages, dwindling to nothing but a town with a few thousand residents gathered in the colourful area that is now known as the Plaka, until its rebirth as capital of an independent Greece in 1834.

Nowadays the city is busy and bustling. While the pollution, frantic gridlock and dingy buildings is of great contrast to the open beauty of Greece's coast and islands, Athens is truly the heartbeat of the country, and ancient wonders like the Acropolis, the Parthenon, and the Temples of Zeus and Hephaesus ensure that Athens will always have its attractions.

Information & Facts

Climate

Athens is known as one of the sunniest cities in Europe, with a semi-arid climate and low average annual rainfall. The rain that does occur falls during the winter months, between mid-October and mid-April, usually as short, heavy showers. Summers are very hot, exacerbated by smoggy conditions, and heatwaves are common during July and August when the mercury soars to over 104°F (40ºC). Winters are mild although frost can occur and nights can be cold. The best time to travel to Athens is during the cooler, fine weather of spring and summer.

Eating Out

The Greek salad has made a firm impression the world over, and it might not be long before other aspects of Greek cuisine start gaining popularity across the Mediterranean. The exotic and varied nature of Greek cuisine is a tantalizing attraction for travelling taste buds.

A traditional Greek meal is typically accompanied by a selection of hors d'oeuvres, known as mezedes. These include melitzanosalata(mashed eggplant with oil, lemon and garlic), taramosalata(caviar spread), gavros marinatos(marinated anchovies), saganaki(grilled or fried cheese) and many other options. While many tourists ask for famous 'Greek' dishes like dolmades and baklava, restauranteurs are quick to correct that perception, explaining that those foods are actuallyTurkish in origin.

A sit-down eating experience takes place mostly in Athens' Plaka region at the foot of the Acropolis. There are four tiers of restaurants. In an estiatorio, the familiar (but more expensive) restaurant experience is offered. Tavernas are less formal, cheaper and oriented toward more traditional cooking. The psistariaare the Greek equivalent of a steakhouse, often buffet with spit-fired meat on display, while psarotavernaspecialising in seafood dishes.

In Athens there is a culture of street vending, which means one can do all one's eating 'en route' so to speak. Among the culinary curiosities on offer are Koulouri (sesame seed bread ring), Galaktoboureko (custard-filled pastry dusted with icing sugar) and Tyropitta (cheese or spinach pies). Souvlaki is a popular Greek fast food where meat and vegetables are grilled on a skewer and often served in a pita sandwich. The Syntagma district has a number of places to eat on the run.

The drinking scene is dominated by a strong, anise-flavoured liqueur called Ouzo. Ouzo originated in Greece and is traditionally served with the mezedes, distilled in water. Greece also has a 6, 000 years history of wine production and boasts over a dozen varieties of red and white wine, though connoisseurs may be disappointed in the lack of subtlety.

Getting Around

Most tourist sites are within the city centre, which is easy to get around on foot, however there is an extensive public transport network consisting of buses, trolley buses, minibuses and a fast new 3-line underground metro service that requires a standard ticket for a 90-minute usage span. The metro is especially useful to get to Piraeus to catch a boat to the islands. The metro stations double as impressive archaeological art and artefact galleries. Transport is cheap, but often overcrowded especially during the siesta rush hour between 1pm and 3pm, and operates until midnight; a limited night bus service operates along major routes. Bus and metro tickets are not transferable, but a daily pass can be used on both; single tickets or packets of 10 must be bought in advance and validated when getting on. Although taxis are plentiful it may be difficult to get one during the siesta rush hour, and it is not unusual to share the ride with other passengers going in the same direction. It is often easier to phone ahead for a radio cab. Taxis are inexpensive, but always check that the meter is on and set to the minimum fare of EUR1 as drivers will often attempt to overcharge tourists - if its 'not working' look for another taxi. Legitimate surcharges can increase the final bill, but these should be displayed on the dashboard. Driving in Athens is not recommended, there are new laws banning cars from the commercial centre to reduce heavy traffic and pollution, and parking anywhere is near impossible.

Kids Attractions

For a city steeped in so much history, many would think that children on holiday in Athens would be bored. But look behind the ancient ruins and temples and find plenty of exciting attractions and activities for kids of all ages to enjoy. With warm summers and mild winters, Athens boasts the perfect climate for outdoor activities and it's no wonder the city is scattered with parks and gardens. Picnicking in these is a regular pastime for many local Athenians and many of the gardens feature children's playgrounds. Take the cable car up Mount Likavitos and let the kids enjoy the view over the city and explore the paths up top, or for the more insatiable child, a trip to one of the Athens' theme parks or the go-kart track will tire them out. When the weather is colder and kids activities out of doors are not an option, head to one of the many children's museums dotted around the city, an indoor playground, or take the kids to the world's finest planetarium for a spot of stargazing. With all these options and more, parents will have no problem finding time to take their children exploring round Athens for the day to enjoy their own little experience of one of the world's most loved and visited cities.

Language

Greek is the national language, but English is widely spoken.

Money

The Euro (EUR) is the official currency, divided into 100 cents. Banks and bureaux de change are widely available and travellers cheques and major credit cards are widely accepted. ATMs are widespread and are generally the cheapest and most convenient method of obtaining euros.

Night Life

Greece has earned a reputation in not only Europe, but across the globe, for its crazy island summer nightlife, but don't be fooled - the nightlife in Athens can rival just about any of its island counterparts. Athens boasts a hectic nightlife consisting of everything from sex shows and gay bars to traditional Greek music and dancing to classical concerts.

Taking an afternoon nap to rest up for the evening's activities is a good idea, as most parties don't really get going until well after dinner, which can be as late as 10pm in the summertime. The old Turkish quarter, known as the Plaka district, is a great place to start where tavernas and fast-food souvlaki joints bustle and diners sip on aperitifs on rooftop terraces overlooking the Acropolis to the sounds of violins, concertinas and bouzouki playing traditional urban Greek music like Rembetika and Smyrneika. Many tavernas have lively music and dancing, including Taverna Mostrou and Palia Taverna Kritikou.

After dinner, head to one of the many music bars, clubs, rock and jazz venues in the city. Clubbing in Athens is expensive, with many large venues charging entrance of EUR10-20, and upwards of EUR10 per drink. For a less touristy option, head to the area around the port of Pireau and explore the clubs and bars on offer here.

Parafono, in the centre of Athens, is a live-music club dedicated to jazz and blues and a great place to watch a gig, while Sundays are dedicated to country, rock and acoustic jam. In the distance the red chimneys of Technopolis attract bourgeois bohemians who flock to jazz and comedy festivals in this former industrial area.

One of the most unique and breathtaking venues for a live concert is the theatre on Mount Lycavettos, which has hosted many world-famous artists. You'll find classical music programmes at the Megaron Mousikis Concert Hall, Olympia Theater, and the Pallas Theater. For traditional Greek theatre and dancing, head to the Athens Centre or the Dora Stratou Folk Dance Theater.

Grab a copy of the International Herald Tribune for its daily Kathimerini cultural and entertainment listings, or the monthly Now in Athens has comprehensive lists of clubs, restaurants, theatre, and more.

Shopping

Historically a crossroads for Middle Eastern and European traders, present-day Athens holds a treasure trove of goods from all over the world. This city boasts a plethora of boutiques, department stores, speciality shops and markets. Popular buys include antiques, ceramics, books, jewellery, shoes and olive oil. In the centre of Athens there are numerous music stores and bookshops, some of which offer translations of the modern Greek authors and music records no longer in production. The Monastiraki Square flea market runs into Pandrossou and Ifaistou streets and is great for local produce and various antiques. While it is operational all week, the best bargains are available on Sundays. Ermou Street is one of Athens' main shopping streets and hosts clothing, accessory and souvenir shops, trading in everything from old money and copper pots to fine ceramics, designer labels and sensational jewellery. Vildiridis and Bulgari jewellers can be found on Voukourestiou and the adjacent streets. Located beneath the Acropolis, the Plaka shopping area also has numerous jewellery stores, art shops, cafés and street vendors.

Sightseeing

Athens is an ancient city in the true sense of the word, and one gets the sense that they're tripping over priceless artefacts. Its origins and culture date back to the years when gods of myth walked the earth, a history reflected in popular destinations such as the Acropolis, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the Ancient Agora, where the temples of the gods Hephaestus and Apollo are also found.

The 3, 000 year history of Athens and, indeed, ancient Greece is perusable on 'museum mile' along Vassilissis Sophias Avenue. Here most of Athens' museums are clustered, including the Benaki Museum, the Museum of Cycladic Art and the Byzantine Museum. The 'mile' starts from Syntagma Square, the home of the Greek Parliament.

For the best view of the city, climb Lycabettus Hill for its spectacular view of the Parthenon. The tranquil National Gardens make a lovely daytime break for those tired of the urban rush, or you can take a tram to Athens' urban beaches, including Agios Kosmas, Attica Vouliagmeni, and Varkiza.

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