Seville, Spain - Stein Travel
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Seville

Spain's great southern city of Seville has a romantic past and a rich Moorish heritage. The city is the regional capital of Andalucia, which contains the densely populated beach resorts of the Costa del Sol along its southern reaches, and the mountain villages of the Sierra Nevada range further inland, about 25 miles (40km) from the coast.

Seville has an impressive collection of historical sights, including its Cathedral, which is the largest Gothic building in the world. Having been occupied by the Moors for 500 years it also has a legacy left by the Arab kings in the form of the Alcazar, a palace-fortress that is regarded as one of the finest existing examples of Moorish architecture.

It is the perfect setting for high culture and romantic operas like Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro; the poet Byron however rated Seville for its women and oranges. Modern visitors might add flamenco, tapas and bull fighting to the list. The soul of the city is best epitomised during its two passion-filled grand festivals, the Semana Santa, held the week before Easter, and the Feria de Abril, held two weeks after Easter Sunday.

The area around Seville itself does not provide much in the way of tourist attractions, except for the rural villages of the Sierra Morena to the north, which offer some perfect walking trails between the modest mountain peaks, particularly in spring when the area is carpeted with wild flowers.

Information & Facts

Climate

Seville has a mild Mediterranean climate, with warm, sunny summers and cool, mild, winters. The hottest months are July and August, with temperatures sometimes reaching a high of 99°F (37°C). Temperatures are, however, sometimes modified by cool sea breezes - a relief at the height of summer. Winter tends to have mixed sun and cloud and January is the coldest month. Autumn and winter are the wettest months, and September and October often bring heavy showers or thunderstorms. These are, however, usually followed by sunny periods. Spring is perhaps the best time to travel to Seville as temperatures are more moderate, though still warm.

Eating Out

Eating out in Seville is approached with the same simplicity locals lend to their lifeview. Dishes are uncomplicated and honest, and ingredients are fresh, flavourful and above all else, tasty.

Similar to the architectural and historical roots of the Andalusian region, cuisine in Seville is a mix of Mediterranean and Moorish tradition. Main ingredients include olive oil, garlic and wine; but a strong Muslim influence has also infused recipes with a handful of mint, a pinch of spice or fragrant citrus and almond elements.

Many visitors are surprised to learn that the city lays claim to Spain's most well-known culinary legacy - the tapas. These small, bite-sized portions make for light and delicious meals, and cater perfectly to a culture that believes whole-heartedly in the value of good conversation.

Though tapas used to be complimentary alongside a nip of sherry or a glass of wine, these days visitors will be hard-pressed to find a restaurant simply "giving away" the traditional side of jamon(cured ham) or the odd bowl of acietunas(olives). Still, sampling one of the 4, 000 odd tapas bars is a must, or if you're in the mood for something more substantial, the city has an assortment of impressive restaurants suitable for a variety of budgets.

Over lunchtime ask about the menu del dia(menu of the day); this normally includes a choice of soup or salad, a main course, and a dessert - and often proves a delicious and economic way to make your way through Seville.

Keep in mind the Spanish eat late, most restaurants only open at 8pm; though the locals will filter in between 9pm and 11pm.

Getting Around

Most of the tourist sights in Seville are in the central area, which is flat, and are best explored on foot. Those travelling further afield will find buses the easiest and most economical way of getting around. Bus stops are easy to find on the main avenues and run on circular routes around the city, and line routes in all directions out of it. Bus routes emanate from Plaza Nueva, Plaza de la Encarnacion, La Barqueta and Prado de San Sebastian. Taxis can be found at designated stands in all the main plazas, or can be hailed on the street if showing a green light, which means they are available. Avoid driving in Seville as roads are confusing and hard to negotiate.

Language

Spanish is the official language, but English is widely understood in areas frequented by tourists. Catalan, Galician and Basque are spoken in the relevant areas.

Money

Spain's official currency is the Euro (EUR). One Euro is divided into 100 cents. Money can be exchanged at bureaux de change and major hotels, but banks give the best rates. All major credit cards and travellers cheques are widely accepted at most hotels, restaurants, and shops. ATMs are widespread and are generally the cheapest and most convenient method of obtaining money.

Night Life

Seville may be pegged as the slightly sleepy southern cousin of Madrid and Barcelona, but the local taste for living leaves little to be desired when it comes to nightlife. Between the bohemian "botelling" of the local university students and the affinity for the arts held by the more sophisticated Sevillianos, the Andalusian capital has an assortment of activities on offer; nightlife in Seville is merely a matter of deciding what to do and where to go.

Regardless of how you end your evening, a great way to start is by blazing a tapas trail. A wide selection of dingy dives and smoother, more stylish spaces crowd around the cobblestone streets of Barrio Santa Cruz and the area around the Catedral de Seville. Simply look for the prodigal leg of jamon(cured ham) hanging from the ceiling and pop in for a quick bite, an easy chat and a cold Cruzcampo(Seville's local beer). Keep moving though: walking, talking and eating is the best way to conquer the countless options.

When you can't stomach any more sample-sized portions, head to either Plaza Alfalfa or Calle Betis for a bit of bar-hopping. Both areas offer revellers some real choice - the latter literally wall-to-wall with local watering holes. During Seville's sultry summer nights, sipping a sherry alongside the Guadalquivir River is also an intoxicating way to kick-off the evening.

Most Seviallanos only leave home around 11:30pm, at which point they start the night with a stiff drink and a shot. Partygoers drain their drinks and head to the discotheque around 1am - from here it's possible to dance the night away until 10am the next morning.

For those with a calmer, more cultural appetite, the nightlife in Seville can be just as satiating.

Flamenco, a passionate mix of dance, music and singing with roots reaching into Andalusia's Roma (gypsy) communities, is a firm favourite and must-see in the city. There's plenty of venues with regular tablao(performances); the Triana district caters to locals while options in Santa Cruz are more tourist-friendly - often offering a traditional Andalusian meal alongside the performance. Visit the central tourist bureau to schedule a slot for yourself and your family.

For those who would rather forego flamenco, Seville's opera house, Teatro de la Maestranza, attracts iconic celebrities and features big-name shows. Occasionally jazz and classical concerts also take place.

If itching for something more interactive, clubs where locals show-off their Sevillanas skills are also spotted and dotted around the city. Tourists can learn the basic steps of this famous dance in these informal gatherings of singing and dancing.

Shopping

Though the city isn't as fashion conscious as other nearby cosmopolitan counterparts, Seville is nonetheless Spanish, meaning aisle cruising is an acceptable way to spend large chunks of time. Tourists will find the experience relaxed and unhurried, many Sevillian shoppers make several stops along the way for coffee and tapas, and stores often close in the middle of the day for siesta.

Shopping in Seville has everything from small, specialty shops to big, overbearing department stores. In fact, the local little guys are often embroiled in battle with the emboldened Spanish brands, the most famous being Zara and Mango. Needless to say, tourists have an amazing assortment of options.

The area around Plaza Neuve is prime territory for anything chic and stylish, and the pedestrian thoroughfares of Calle Tetuan and Calle de las Sierpes are cluttered with opportunities to purchase some smart Spanish clothes or pay top dollar for the more high-end haute couture.

Tourists shopping in Seville may also be interested in scooping up a few items more aptly aligned with local culture. Ceramics and Andalusian linen and shawls make great Seville souvenirs and are in no short supply.

Take a trip across the Guadalquivir River to the traditional tile-making area of Triana; a handful of shops and functioning workshops sell beautifully crafted tiles and in some cases it's possible to watch the craftsman shape their wares. Many of the beautiful azulejos (ceramic tiles) adorning local churches, houses and tapas bars are still sculpted there today.

If you don't feel like trooping so far, the area around the Reales Alcazares and the Barrio Santa Cruz also houses a healthy supply of shops selling hand-painted ceramics and embroidered blankets and scarves. There's also plenty of touristy knick-knacks and Seville bric-a-brac on sale.

Most shops are open from 10am to 2pm and then from 5pm to 8pm during the week; from 10am to 2pm on Saturday; and are closed on Sundays. The big-brand names and large department stores often stay open all day. Most places accept all major credit cards.

Time

Local time is GMT +1 (GMT +2 between the last Sunday in March and the Saturday before the last Sunday in October). The Canary Islands: GMT (GMT +1 in summer).

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